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Dinosaurs and Neanderthals once roamed the limestone hills of the Karst region, and legend holds that Jason and the Argonauts sailed in with the Golden Fleece. Empires breezed in, too, notably the Roman and the Byzantine. But it was centuries of Austrian rule that left the most enduring mark.
The winds also brought James Joyce, who lived intermittently in the city in the early 20th century. But Trieste is hardly a gusty relic. A new high-tech photography museum, an expanding night life area and a fancy new nearby marina, Portopiccolo , join the Old World churches, picturesque piazzas, sumptuous palazzo-museums, classic Austrian coffeehouses and cozy seafood restaurants to create a distinctive Adriatic experience.
Your crash course in history begins at the Roman amphitheater on Via del Teatro Romano. Built from the s to s on the site of the former Roman settlement, the fortress offers panoramic vistas of the city and sea. Spectral music ensures full sensory immersion. Admission, 8 euros. Expect to learn some salty new vocabulary at Alla Sorgente, a rustic seafood restaurant with stone walls and wooden tables.
In lieu of a menu, the matron of the house tells you in Italian the dishes. You might hear talk of capesante scallops or orata sea bream , to say nothing of triglia mullet — recently served cold with thyme and vinegar-marinated leeks — or the fantastic house-made spaghetti with tiny clams and tomato chunks.